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| Bandorbon |
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| Remarki |
On my way to reach the highest peaks of
Bangladesh
Mountains in Bangladesh are not as high as to be challenging
for the adept hikers, but she certainly has some mountains which are good in
height and good challenging ground for novice hikers. Mount Kewkaradong, Mount
Tajingdong and Mount Safa Hapong (it is now claimed as the highest mountain of
Bangladesh, with a GPS reading of 3488 feet) are the three claimed highest
peaks within the country. The basic objective of our expedition was to conquer
all three highest mountains in Bangladesh one by one. The team consisted of
five members from different corners of Dhaka city, having the same interest.
The team consisted of Rafiul Nakib, , Anwar hossain chowdhury, Muhammad
Mahmudul Haque (Farooque bhai), who believes mountain hiking is not for him,
but joins us almost every time and
myself the narrator Sayem Sujat Shuvro.
We had been planning for this expedition for one month and after extensive
planning and groundwork, we started our journey on 26 February, 2011 from
Fakirapul by S. Alam Bus Services, which offers direct bus service to Bandarban
every night at 11: 30pm.
Day-1
The team reached in Bandarban on 27 February at 7:30 am. The day was bright and
shining. We hired two rickshaws and headed for Ruma Bus Station. At the bus
station we got the tickets for Ghat no 1, and had our breakfast and tea. The
bus started at 8:00 am from Bandarban for Ghat no 1, which is a close spot to
Ruma Bazar. It takes usually 2.5 hours to reach to Ghat 01, but this time it
took 3.5 hours to reach to Ghat no 01 from Bandarban town, as the
development initiatives were in full force incurred by Bangladesh Army for
development of the road , which forced us to stop on the way multiple times.
After reaching at Ghat 01, we hired a boat with Tk. 20/head for going to Ruma
Bazar. As the summer was stepping up, the water level of Sangu River
dropped dramatically, and it was difficult to paddle the boat through the
shallow channels of Sangu. But this very river becomes so deep and waves become
so strong in the rainy season that it creates a wild and scenic beauty, and
carries the life blood of cultivation of certain specific crops in the
upstream. Tobacco and peanuts are the main crops in this area. It was a
40 minutes peaceful boat journey which took us to Ruma Bazar. The Ruma Bazar is
a small Upzilla of Bandarban which is also the starting point for the distant
mountains of the area. We reached Ruma Bazar just at 1pm. It was a burning
summer afternoon and the sun was scorching brilliantly over our head.
We (the starving hikers) did not delay to hire a guide and headed for the Army
Camp. Each team, intended to go to Boga Lake and to the mountains, has to
report to Ruma Bazar Army Camp and Ruma Bazar Police Camp for security reasons.
As soon as we completed the formalities, we bought some chickens for making
BBQ, and finished our lunch at Ruma Bazar. By 2:30pm we hired a Jeep, locally
known as “Chander Gari” and started for Boga Lake. We reached Boga Lake by 5pm
and lodged at Siam Didi’s cottage.
Boga Lake is a lake situated at 1290 feet high above the sea level. It’s a
magnificent lake in the midst of mountains. It’s like a base camp for the
hikers who hike regularly in this area. There are many phenomena about Boga
Lake; many stories and fables move in the local community.
There is a Bawm village adjacent to the lake, where, tourists and hikers can
hold the night in exchange of rent. Nearby there is an Army Camp, where every
tourist group needs to register and report their arrival and next departure
plan. This is also done for security reasons. The Bawms are the
friendliest, clean and second highly educated indigenous community in the CHT
community. So staying in a Bawm house is a bonus. We started to prepare our BBQ
and had our dinner by 8 pm. The BBQ was ready at 12am, and after a whole day journey,
the BBQ tasted great. It was a great way to finish the day. We went to
bed with a plan to start the next day as early as possible. Early to bed and
early to rise……makes a hiker, healthy wealthy and wise.
Day-2
I woke up at 6 am every day, and it was not an exception for me on that very
day. I started calling others to leave the bed, to get a brilliant view of
sunrise and the taste of tamarinds, which were hanging from a tree nearby. The
taste of the tamarind was so mouthwatering that we all had a lot of tamarind
like crazy school kids, and pretty soon we paid for such a childish act. Before
having our breakfast, we all were looking for the office (lavatory) as things
were busting off in our stomachs.
We settled the issue ASAP, and had a magnificent Khichuri and egg omelet and
started our journey for the Mount Kewkaradong at 7am. As we moved on feet, the
hills started to get steeper and steeper, but somehow, manageable. We moved
together towards a fall locally known as Chingri Jhiri (a magnificent fall) and
reached there within 40 minutes. We ate papaya, which we were carrying with us
as a gift for our team from Siam Didi, from Boga Lake. Then we drank the fresh
water from the fall, filled our water bottles, and started moving towards
Darjeeling Para. We reached Darjeeling Para around 10:30 am. Here we rested for
a while, drank tea with local biscuits and started moving. We could see the
peak of Mount Kewkaradong, which was the source of our inspiration. We reached
the peak of Kewkaradong at 11:00 am in the morning. We hoisted the national
flag on the top, and promised to move forward. We shot some group photos on the
top of Mount Kewkaradong and moved forward.. We still had a long way to go from
there.
After a 10 minute’s walk we reached Passing Para. This is now so far the
highest village of Bangladesh, and both Bawm and Murong tribes live here. Here
we met our friend Robert Da, and drank tea at his shop. Then we moved forward
towards Thaikong Para and reached there at 2pm in the afternoon.
The hot sun was burning on our head, and we were very dried up, as we entered
Thaikong Para. Here I met my old friend Chao Thang, who received us cordially
and arranged lunch for us. The menu was rice, pumpkin curry and egg. It was
awesome and energetic, and we swallowed everything in no time. Then we received
a massage in cell phone that, Bangladesh had defeated Ireland in their group
match in the ICC World Cup Cricket. The news inspired us and we decided to
dedicate the expedition for the success of Bangladesh cricket team. In order to
rejoice such good news we purchased two chickens from local villagers and
celebrated till late night by making BBQ.
The chill cold wind was blowing at night to remind us that difficult time was
coming. Farooque Bhai was very nostalgic; the cold wind was blowing
making a melancholy tune as it passed the long unknown trees beside the grave
yard. To honor Farquee bhai’s continuous request, the whole group sat at the
bench in front of the graveyard of Thaikong Para, and listened to the whisper
of the winds and enjoyed the stars. Suddenly, we saw a falling star and
crossed our fingers making different wishes. How beautiful my country is! God
is so great; people can’t see the tears of joy at night. I was very happy to
feel the way my team members were enjoying the beauties of nature, far away
from the city.
Day-3
Today we all woke up early at 6:30 am. As we needed to cover a lot by hiking
today, everyone was thrilled and ready to set off. I wanted to take my old
friend Chao Thang as my new guide, but unfortunately he was unable to join my
team this time. The reason was that he had to prepare his land for Joom
cultivation, which was significant for ensuring his annual crop production. So
he requested me to take his younger brother Vandem as our guide. We took Vandem
with us and started at 7:30 am sharp. We marched toward Tamlong Para, which is
a Bawm village, and 3 hour’s distance from Thaikong Para. Initially the way was
easy, but later as the sun grew hotter, it became physically challenging, and
this is what we live for. We reached Tamlong Para at 11 am. We bought two
packs of biscuits (that is all they had in the only shop), and tea was free
offered by the shopkeeper.
Having tea without sugar, we started again for Dulachan. On the way a very aged
Bawm lady was waiting for us at the end of the village and offered us two
bottles of cold water, we accepted them as a gift of God. We thanked the lady
and started moving.
Instead of the advice of our guide for a shortcut but difficult route, we
decided to take the long route which took almost 2 hrs for us to reach
Dulachan.
At Dulachan we got cooked rice and raw reddish and greenish bananas. The main
guide cum cook of our team Sadek made an extraordinary salad with the available
radish and chilies that was tremendously tasty and energetic. We took a rest
for 1 hour, and then completed our lunch and started for Nephew Para. As we
moved forward, we reached the Chanbok Fall and then captured some mind blowing
pictures. In the hilly area the sun vanished by 4:30pm. We trekked forward and
on the way we met a group of 4 members who had conquered Safa Haflong that day.
We congratulated the team and crossed the Remecry River. We walked by the
Remecry River bank for 30 more minutes, and Farooque complained that he could
not see the trail well. He wears very thick glasses (-7) and he is literally
blind without glasses
I was thinking seriously if we could move further ahead today. But as there was
not any para close by, we were bound to keep on moving. All on a sudden, a
small Murong para appeared before us, but I decided not to stay there as
Murongs are not that much welcoming.
We kept on moving and met two Tripura men coming from the opposite direction,
who said there was a Tripura village nearby named Hanjhorai Para. They also
informed us that it would be difficult for us to go to Nephew Para that day,
and requested us to hold the night at Hanjhorai. We thanked them and started
moving. Then we came to a crossing where we needed to cross Remecry River
again. This time the bottom of the Remmercy River was slippery. We lit
our torch and head lamps and crossed the river one by one. The water level was
high and the water was cold. We were shivering, the water
felt freezing.
We crossed the beautiful and mighty Chongbok Fall, which was still in full
force at the end of winter. Suddenly the area became murky and chilly air was
raging over us in a crazy manner. As we climbed the river bank on the other
side, in the dark, we could see the fire, and heard the dogs barking
identifying the intruder’s tune. It assured me it was a para at last!
So we reached Hanjhorai Para at 7: 30pm. As everyone wanted to change wet
dresses, we decided to stay at Hanjhorai para. We went to karbariy’s house--the
only house with solar light available in the village, and lodged there.
There was a single bed sheet for every member and no pillow at all.
Fortunately, we took some warm clothes and jackets with us. Outside it was so
chill that everybody was bound to put on at least 3 shirts and 2 pants and
socks before slipping.
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